Starrett 161A Toolmakers Parallel Clamp, 3/4" Capacity, 21/32" Throat Depth

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Price: $37.97    

Product Feature

• Body Material - Steel
• Locking Type - Bolt
• Opening Size - 0 in [Min], 1 1/4 in [Max]
• Type - Handscrew Clamp
• Throat Depth - 13/16 in [Max]

Product Description

Parallel clamp is designed for maximum strength and rigidity. It is extremely useful for holding work together in tapping and drilling and on various machine setups. The ends of the jaws are rounded to permit clamping under shoulders or in recesses. A retaining ring holds the loose jaw in alignment when the clamp is being opened or closed. Clamps is made of steel, nicely finished and hardened.

Starrett 161A Toolmakers Parallel Clamp, 3/4" Capacity, 21/32" Throat Depth Review

I found this in a bucket of cutting bits and parts my machinist neighbor gave me. The rear screw was OK, but the front screw was rusted solid. Just a little torsion broke it. The screw was rusted thru. The diameter was not 3/16" (10-24 thread) and far smaller than 1/4-20. Another pre-WWII thread.

Just a note on old machinery. Thread standardization has come a long way. It wasn't until the late 18th Century in Britain the issue was even addressed. Look up the name Wentworth. It wasn't until the industrial frenzy of WWII we really addressed it. Lots of factories contributing to BIG projects. Out of that came UNC and UNF threads.

I drilled out the hole, and filled it with brazing metal. I redrilled, and tapped to 10-24. I drilled the bottom of the original knob, and silver soldered in the 10-24 rod. Cleanup with file, wire brush, and some cold gun blue and done.

I have found this clamp to be so useful, I made four more out of shop scrap, and the rest of that 10-24 threaded rod.

Can't have enough clamps!

For very small wood working projects, it will shine. For holding metal in small places, where you can just stick the nose in, it beats a C clamp.

You have to get used to how to use these. Turn the front screw until the jaws just a little more than contact the work. Turn the rear screw to bring the jaws parallel. Test. Good fit? If not, back off the rear, and adjust the front screw, then bring up the rear again. You should use tommy bars in the holes in the knobs only to back off the screws.

One of the wonderful thing about these is the degree of feel for the pressure on the work. A C clamp isn't nearly as good for that. The parallel, flat surface has far less tendency to dig into soft workpieces.

Need parts, and can't or don't wanna make 'em? Ask Starrett. They support their stuff!

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